Dubbed “Jewish penicillin” by bubbes and zaydes everywhere, matzo ball soup has devotees. But fans who grew up eating the comfort food favorite tend to have firmly set opinions. Some love “floaters,” or light, fluffy matzo balls; others prefer “sinkers,” a denser style of dumplings. This version meets the two camps in the middle, with matzo balls that are rich and flavorful (thanks to the addition of schmaltz, a.k.a. rendered chicken fat) and tender and light (thanks to a splash of seltzer or club soda). It’ll win you over too, especially if it’s your first time making it.
The only leavening here is beaten eggs—mix them thoroughly into the matzo meal batter so the balls plump evenly. The batter needs time to hydrate before you can form the balls; refrigerate it for at least a few hours (up to overnight) until it transforms into a workable dough. We cook the matzo balls in salted, gently boiling water, not chicken broth. This ensures the balls are perfectly seasoned and leaves you with a beautifully clear soup broth. (For more tips, check out this helpful guide.)
Ingredients
6 servings
Chicken stock
1
1
2
6
4
1
1
1
6
1
Matzo ball mixture
3
¾
¼
3
1¼
Assembly
2
2
Preparation
-
Chicken stock
Step 1
Combine 1 4–5-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces, 1 lb. chicken wings, necks, and/or backs, 2 large yellow onions, unpeeled, quartered, 6 celery stalks, cut into 1″ pieces, 4 large carrots, peeled, cut into 1″ pieces, 1 large parsnip, peeled, cut into 1″ pieces, 1 large shallot, quartered, 1 head of garlic, halved crosswise, 6 sprigs parsley, and 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns in a large stockpot (at least 12-qt.). Add 12 cups cold water and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until chicken breasts are cooked through, about 20 minutes.
Step 2
Transfer breasts to a plate (remaining chicken parts are strictly for stock). Let breasts cool slightly, then remove meat and return bones to stock. Shred meat. Let cool, tightly wrap, and chill.
Step 3
Continue to simmer stock, skimming surface occasionally, until reduced by one third, about 2 hours. Strain chicken stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan (or airtight container, if not using right away); discard solids. You should have about 8 cups.
Do ahead: Stock can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Keep reserved chicken meat chilled.
-
Matzo ball mixture
Step 4
Mix 3 large eggs, beaten to blend, ¾ (88 g) cup matzo meal, ¼ cup schmaltz (chicken fat), melted, 3 Tbsp. club soda, and 1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. plus ⅛ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl (mixture will resemble wet sand; it will firm up as it rests). Cover and chill at least 2 hours.
Do ahead: Mixture can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.
-
Assembly
Step 5
Bring chicken stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Add 2 small carrots, peeled, sliced ¼” thick on a diagonal; season with kosher salt. Reduce heat and simmer until carrots are tender, 5–7 minutes. Remove from heat, add reserved shredded chicken breast, and cover. Set soup aside.
Step 6
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Scoop 2-tablespoonful portions matzo ball mixture and, using wet hands, gently roll into balls. Transfer to prepared baking sheet.
Step 7
Add matzo balls to water and reduce heat so water is at a gentle simmer (too much bouncing around will break them up). Cover pot and cook matzo balls until cooked through and starting to sink, 20–25 minutes.
Step 8
Using a slotted spoon, transfer matzo balls to bowls. Ladle chicken soup over, top with dill, and season with pepper.